Top 6 Hot Springs soaks in Colorado

Photo by Glenwood Hot Springs Resort

Glenwood Springs was first. The strong smell of sulfur and the scratch of concrete on our bare feet. I think it may be more bougie now, but it is still hot. I remember thinking that the first pool was so hot it may have literally touched the earth’s core. My young siblings and I dared each other to jump in, or even to dip a toe, before we headed to the milder, larger warm pool that seemed to go on forever. Apparently its the largest hot springs pool in the world!

“I can still touch here,” we would exclaim to one another and to our parents, as we bobbed along all the way to the deep end, its diving boards, and an inevitable sunburn in the high-altitude swim.

My young husband and I ended up back in Glenwood again for our honeymoon. It was unexpected, a sort of punt after the cruise line we’d booked went bankrupt. We kept returning wedding gifts at the Glenwood Walmart to extend our stay at the honeymoon suite at the Silver Spruce Inn and then cheaper Starlight Lodge. A set of six glass tumblers and some mixing bowls afforded us a few more days of hiking, soaking, and fine dining at the Village Inn. I think couples plan more today and have more money. But are they the happier for it? Debatable.

We were married in late December, and if you’ve never been in a Colorado hot springs in winter, know this: it’s magic. Pillows of steam rise from the water, wrapping swimmers in mystery and privacy as they glide through the warm, mineral-rich pool. Pure joy.

Three years later, we landed in Norwood, Colorado, not far from Ouray, another hot springs haven. We’d often drive the hour to soak in the mineral baths while our preschool daughter swam circles around us. We’d lean back, relax, and scan the red cliffs for mountain goats.


Colorado Hot Springs Map

Another daughter later and we headed again to Glenwood, and then more regularly down from Grandma and Grandpa’s place in the center of the state to Mt. Princeton Hot Springs near Buena Vista. They had a frequent swimmer punch card!

At that time, Mt. Princeton wasn’t much—just a cave-like reception area, a basic rectangular pool, and a path down to Chalk Creek, where the real magic happened. Hot water bubbles up beneath the sandy creek bed, and visitors build rock pools right in the stream, mixing hot and cold flows to find the perfect soak. The kids loved experimenting, damming one side, letting cold water in the other. It’s a little more fancy now, and definitely much more expensive, but the creek is still the best part.

In more recent years, we’ve added new springs to our travelogue. Pagosa Springs, near Durango, charmed us with its location right in town but somehow still holding onto a nature vibe. Strawberry Hot Springs, near Steamboat, delivered an entirely different experience—hippie vibes, clothing optional after dark, and a sketchy unisex changing room with raggedy curtains. After a day of skiing we braved the snowy stairs on prickly bare feet to sink into the steamy and crowded, but warm and lovely pools.

Me and the Hubs at Pagosa Springs, Colorado, in 2019.

Our favorite hot spring discovery lately is the redeveloped Iron Mountain Hot Springs, the second major spring in Glenwood. It features over a dozen small pools made of red rock, sand, and pebbles, blending into the high desert aesthetic and offering unique temperatures marked with metal signage. Regular adjustments with cool Colorado River water offset the natural 112°F heat.

The best part? Choice. Want to stay in a toasty 105°F? Done. Prefer a milder 99°F? Just down the walkway. My personal favorite is 103°F. Every body is different.

Some pools are close enough to hear the river; others let you sit and watch it flow by. Bathers soak surrounded by foothills, eagles—and the glow of lights from the big box stores across the water.

We still have plenty of hot springs left to try. So when we find our next favorite soak—I’ll be sure to let you know.

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Spoiled in Colorado

Last week we rode up the chairlift at Vail with a couple who said they were from Tahiti. Tahiti! That’s almost 5,000 miles across a tropical ocean from the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. It was certainly the farthest flung origin I’d ever heard about, even at Vail, an international enclave. We’ve met people there from Mexico, Germany, Portugal, and elsewhere. Though Tahiti was a new one. I forget sometimes what a huge draw winters in Colorado are for people who live elsewhere. We get dumps of snow off and on, but we also get regular days of sun that quickly melt it all away. In fact, today, late February, I’m sitting outside in the sun writing this. It’s in the 60s and with the sun it feels warm enough for just a T-shirt and jeans.

We have ski passes again this year. If we buy them early enough and ski often enough the price works out to be about a third less than a lift ticket. And the more we ski the cheaper it is. Though Vail does charge about $30 this year just to park the car. So, there’s that. As prices have risen and ski resorts have been apparently catering more and more to out-of-state skiers who come for days or weeks, we have been forced to get a little more creative in how we ski, just to be able to afford it. We have a few cheat codes.

First, we ski mid-week when we can. It’s not cheaper, but it’s more fun. A Tuesday or Wednesday is far less crowded, which means a smoother and faster drive up the mountain, less time in lift lines, and fewer out of control skiers and boarders running into me.

Keeping your skis together is not just a skiing skill, it’s a happy marriage secret.

Second, at Breckenridge we park at the free lot and take a bus to the lift. Whenever and wherever we go we usually pack our lunch and avoid the movie-theater-concessions pricing for food at the resorts. Just when I think I feel too much like a skin flint, I see other people eating food they brought as well. 

It isn’t just skiing; we travel cheap in general. Last September, we found ourselves housesitting again on the Gulf Coast of Florida and a woman taking tourist surveys approached us near the beach at Sarasota and wanted to know how we had spent only a few hundred dollars for a two-week beach trip. Pretty sure we skewed her survey results. Along with housesitting, we “freecationed” by cashing in some credit card miles to stay a couple nights at a fancy hotel and do a kayaking tour to see manatees in the bay. (Though that wouldn’t be financially savvy if you didn’t pay your card off, obviously.) We also ride local buses in lieu of more expensive ride shares. We walk and bicycle. We do libraries and parks, walk along the beach and window shop. And we get food from the grocery store and reserve eating out for a few well-timed occasions. A perk of living in a place like Colorado where everything from food, to stays, to skiing, is expensive, is that when we go most other places, we get a little bit of a price break.

Also, just being able to go find adventures makes us both happy enough that we don’t need luxury level. And each foot we gain in altitude driving up into the mountains to ski pulls the stress and worry from our faces. The vertical feet we drop zooming down the runs helps us find our happy places, too. Maybe a piece of it is something of the discipline of simplicity. If I remind myself of that, I can be even happier thinking about freely enjoying the great riches of a place like the mountains. And how spoiled we are to know their Creator–the same one who also made Tahiti!

Venice, Florida, offers free souvenirs, and plenty to go around after hurricane season.

And once we’re tired, maybe a little sore, and ready to change the heft of ski boots for bare feet, we sometimes head to the nearest hot springs. We’ve been to more than half a dozen around the state over the years. I wish we could go more often but spoiling ourselves with a relaxing soak has gotten expensive. The only way to save money is to bring your own bathing suit, towel, and water to drink. The steamy view of the snowy hills and red rocks, the sound of the river gurgling by, maybe eagles soaring overhead or a meandering bighorn sheep—all no extra charge.

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