Top 6 Hot Springs soaks in Colorado

Photo by Glenwood Hot Springs Resort

Glenwood Springs was first. The strong smell of sulfur and the scratch of concrete on our bare feet. I think it may be more bougie now, but it is still hot. I remember thinking that the first pool was so hot it may have literally touched the earth’s core. My young siblings and I dared each other to jump in, or even to dip a toe, before we headed to the milder, larger warm pool that seemed to go on forever. Apparently its the largest hot springs pool in the world!

“I can still touch here,” we would exclaim to one another and to our parents, as we bobbed along all the way to the deep end, its diving boards, and an inevitable sunburn in the high-altitude swim.

My young husband and I ended up back in Glenwood again for our honeymoon. It was unexpected, a sort of punt after the cruise line we’d booked went bankrupt. We kept returning wedding gifts at the Glenwood Walmart to extend our stay at the honeymoon suite at the Silver Spruce Inn and then cheaper Starlight Lodge. A set of six glass tumblers and some mixing bowls afforded us a few more days of hiking, soaking, and fine dining at the Village Inn. I think couples plan more today and have more money. But are they the happier for it? Debatable.

We were married in late December, and if you’ve never been in a Colorado hot springs in winter, know this: it’s magic. Pillows of steam rise from the water, wrapping swimmers in mystery and privacy as they glide through the warm, mineral-rich pool. Pure joy.

Three years later, we landed in Norwood, Colorado, not far from Ouray, another hot springs haven. We’d often drive the hour to soak in the mineral baths while our preschool daughter swam circles around us. We’d lean back, relax, and scan the red cliffs for mountain goats.


Colorado Hot Springs Map

Another daughter later and we headed again to Glenwood, and then more regularly down from Grandma and Grandpa’s place in the center of the state to Mt. Princeton Hot Springs near Buena Vista. They had a frequent swimmer punch card!

At that time, Mt. Princeton wasn’t much—just a cave-like reception area, a basic rectangular pool, and a path down to Chalk Creek, where the real magic happened. Hot water bubbles up beneath the sandy creek bed, and visitors build rock pools right in the stream, mixing hot and cold flows to find the perfect soak. The kids loved experimenting, damming one side, letting cold water in the other. It’s a little more fancy now, and definitely much more expensive, but the creek is still the best part.

In more recent years, we’ve added new springs to our travelogue. Pagosa Springs, near Durango, charmed us with its location right in town but somehow still holding onto a nature vibe. Strawberry Hot Springs, near Steamboat, delivered an entirely different experience—hippie vibes, clothing optional after dark, and a sketchy unisex changing room with raggedy curtains. After a day of skiing we braved the snowy stairs on prickly bare feet to sink into the steamy and crowded, but warm and lovely pools.

Me and the Hubs at Pagosa Springs, Colorado, in 2019.

Our favorite hot spring discovery lately is the redeveloped Iron Mountain Hot Springs, the second major spring in Glenwood. It features over a dozen small pools made of red rock, sand, and pebbles, blending into the high desert aesthetic and offering unique temperatures marked with metal signage. Regular adjustments with cool Colorado River water offset the natural 112°F heat.

The best part? Choice. Want to stay in a toasty 105°F? Done. Prefer a milder 99°F? Just down the walkway. My personal favorite is 103°F. Every body is different.

Some pools are close enough to hear the river; others let you sit and watch it flow by. Bathers soak surrounded by foothills, eagles—and the glow of lights from the big box stores across the water.

We still have plenty of hot springs left to try. So when we find our next favorite soak—I’ll be sure to let you know.

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Spoiled in Colorado

Last week we rode up the chairlift at Vail with a couple who said they were from Tahiti. Tahiti! That’s almost 5,000 miles across a tropical ocean from the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. It was certainly the farthest flung origin I’d ever heard about, even at Vail, an international enclave. We’ve met people there from Mexico, Germany, Portugal, and elsewhere. Though Tahiti was a new one. I forget sometimes what a huge draw winters in Colorado are for people who live elsewhere. We get dumps of snow off and on, but we also get regular days of sun that quickly melt it all away. In fact, today, late February, I’m sitting outside in the sun writing this. It’s in the 60s and with the sun it feels warm enough for just a T-shirt and jeans.

We have ski passes again this year. If we buy them early enough and ski often enough the price works out to be about a third less than a lift ticket. And the more we ski the cheaper it is. Though Vail does charge about $30 this year just to park the car. So, there’s that. As prices have risen and ski resorts have been apparently catering more and more to out-of-state skiers who come for days or weeks, we have been forced to get a little more creative in how we ski, just to be able to afford it. We have a few cheat codes.

First, we ski mid-week when we can. It’s not cheaper, but it’s more fun. A Tuesday or Wednesday is far less crowded, which means a smoother and faster drive up the mountain, less time in lift lines, and fewer out of control skiers and boarders running into me.

Keeping your skis together is not just a skiing skill, it’s a happy marriage secret.

Second, at Breckenridge we park at the free lot and take a bus to the lift. Whenever and wherever we go we usually pack our lunch and avoid the movie-theater-concessions pricing for food at the resorts. Just when I think I feel too much like a skin flint, I see other people eating food they brought as well. 

It isn’t just skiing; we travel cheap in general. Last September, we found ourselves housesitting again on the Gulf Coast of Florida and a woman taking tourist surveys approached us near the beach at Sarasota and wanted to know how we had spent only a few hundred dollars for a two-week beach trip. Pretty sure we skewed her survey results. Along with housesitting, we “freecationed” by cashing in some credit card miles to stay a couple nights at a fancy hotel and do a kayaking tour to see manatees in the bay. (Though that wouldn’t be financially savvy if you didn’t pay your card off, obviously.) We also ride local buses in lieu of more expensive ride shares. We walk and bicycle. We do libraries and parks, walk along the beach and window shop. And we get food from the grocery store and reserve eating out for a few well-timed occasions. A perk of living in a place like Colorado where everything from food, to stays, to skiing, is expensive, is that when we go most other places, we get a little bit of a price break.

Also, just being able to go find adventures makes us both happy enough that we don’t need luxury level. And each foot we gain in altitude driving up into the mountains to ski pulls the stress and worry from our faces. The vertical feet we drop zooming down the runs helps us find our happy places, too. Maybe a piece of it is something of the discipline of simplicity. If I remind myself of that, I can be even happier thinking about freely enjoying the great riches of a place like the mountains. And how spoiled we are to know their Creator–the same one who also made Tahiti!

Venice, Florida, offers free souvenirs, and plenty to go around after hurricane season.

And once we’re tired, maybe a little sore, and ready to change the heft of ski boots for bare feet, we sometimes head to the nearest hot springs. We’ve been to more than half a dozen around the state over the years. I wish we could go more often but spoiling ourselves with a relaxing soak has gotten expensive. The only way to save money is to bring your own bathing suit, towel, and water to drink. The steamy view of the snowy hills and red rocks, the sound of the river gurgling by, maybe eagles soaring overhead or a meandering bighorn sheep—all no extra charge.

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Rugged Like the Colorado Rockies

My in-laws live at 10,000 feet. By comparison, the highest peaks in Colorado are 14,000 feet. People feel sleepy in their cozy mountain house, because of the high altitude. Water boils 18 degrees cooler on their stove, and it is the best water I’ve ever tasted. Also, It’s also usually 20 degrees cooler up there in Como, Colorado than down here on the front range. 

In summertime this feels like a lovely reprieve from the 95-degree heat of the plains to the 75 degrees in the shade of the aspens and conifers that dot the hills up there. And looking out across the expanse of South Park is breathtaking. But then, the wind kicks up, which it does most days, and blows until most people head indoors and the cattle plant their hooves firmly at a slant, the way the grass grows. In the winter the wind and cold are enough to drive most people to warmer climes. I think my in-laws are among only a handful of folks who call Como home year-round.

They’ve had snow on the 4th of July up there. We’ve been nearly frostbitten and hypothermic sledding with my mother-in-law in the winter. The highway through the valley is closed many days when the road becomes indistinguishable from the ditch and the fields that lay beyond barbed wire fence lines that are buried in snowdrifts. We once drove home in a ground blizzard that obscured our passage except for the three feet just in front of the headlights that lit up the raging snowstorm like a swarm of moths at a porchlight. 

But in high summer and a few days in the early fall Como is idyllic. This fall we went up to help cut wood with the in-laws. We headed across a cow pasture to a stand of aspen that had died. Most had already fallen, and my father-in-law worked the chainsaw deftly on them until the bed of the old pickup truck was full.

We drove back and my father-in-law stepped to work at the gas-powered log splitter, and we made the mountain of firewood on the other side of his driveway a ½ ton higher. Tossing logs was good cardiovascular work in the altitude. I drank through my water bottle a couple of times. I kept taking off my jacket and putting it back on depending on whether the sun was behind a cloud or not. 

And although for much of the year Como is a less-than-attractive place to hang your hat, since it will actually blow away, my in-laws have been there long enough now that I know they’re just the type to stick places, no matter what. And while that has made them a bit more anxious than most about weather, it’s also instructive about who they are and about who my husband is. 

Ron Sr. and Ron Jr. working on firewood for the long, cold Como winter.

For one thing: he’s steadfast and constant—like the Como wind and his parents. He’s also a hard worker, since most things—firewood for example, but also vegetable gardens, satellite antennas, water, etc., require harder work to exist up there than in other easier places. And, perhaps due to all the hard work in a difficult place, his idea of adversity is a few clicks more intense than most people. 

He’s a mountain man, quiet like the long afternoons on a deserted hill with only the breeze in the pines and the chittering of birds to hear. He’s calm like the sun coming up over the peaks. And he has a depth like the clouds gathering in the west over the Rockies.

I used to spend my summers in Como when I was a kid, going to the camp there. I remember sitting on the wooden veranda of the mess hall, resting my legs on the log railing, and soaking in the sun. I remember the cool of the shade through the trees to the cabins, and hikes high up little Mt. Baldy. I was in the slow group, pretending to stop for pictures quite often. In contrast with my husband, my experience of Como says a lot about me. I get bored with the same place all the time. I spent my summers goofing off, so I got pretty good at that. And most adversity to me is a fun adventure, like lighting candles if the power goes out for 15 minutes, not something to overcome for fear of literally freezing to death. So, although we have some shared memories of Como, most of our times there were as different as we are from one another. 

The aspens glowing gold and orange this fall in the Colorado Rockies near Como.

My husband went back up to Como several days in September while I was in Minnesota, and in October to wander the beautiful mountainsides in search of deer and elk. His photos show a picturesque but rugged bit of country where already the temperatures are turning to freezing. The first snow has long since landed, with plenty more to come if you adhere to the common saying about mountain weather:

“Nine months of winter, three months of fall, a breath of spring and no summer at all.” 

Still, my husband will likely want to be there. As John Muir said, he’s not so much in the mountains as the mountains are in him.